Welcome back to another monthly exploration of England’s uplifting heritage. Researching social history and writing has become a new creative outlet, and I enjoy blending it with documentary photography. I want to express my heartfelt gratitude to everyone who takes the time to read my words, comment, and share.
Introduction
This month's photo-essay takes you to the heart of Penzance's enchanting Golowan festival. Imagine a magical night alive with the warm glow of flames as the community gathers for a magical torch-lit procession led by ancient characters. The 2025 festival, themed “On the Crest of a Wave,” beautifully celebrated Penzance’s rich maritime heritage.
History
The following quotation is an extract from ‘Antiquities of Cornwall’, a book by William Borlase published in 1754. It highlighted the cultural importance of midsummer fire festivals featuring bonfires, torchlit processions, and communal celebrations.
“In Cornwall, the festival Fires, called Bonfires, are kindled on the Eve of St. John the Baptist and St. Peter’s Day; and Midsummer is thence, in the Cornish tongue, called ‘Goluan,’ which signifies both light and rejoicing. At these Fires the Cornish attend with lighted torches, tarr’d and pitch’d at the end, and make perambulations round their Fires, and go from village to village carrying their torches before them.” — William Borlase
During the medieval period, pagan folklore practices became intertwined with Christian feast days. However, the origins of Cornish lore can be traced back to Neolithic times, a period marked by the domestication of animals, land cultivation, and harvesting. The Golowan Festival is thought to have its roots in these ancient midsummer celebrations linked to Beltane. In these traditions, bonfires were significant, symbolising purification, fertility, and the sun’s strength. You can read my photo essay on Glastonbury Beltane here
Golowan’s modern torch-lit procession features hundreds of residents who carry torches and lanterns to brighten the streets. Key figures in the procession include the Master of Ceremonies, the talented Golowan Band, Penglaz the ‘Obby ‘Oss, and the Trickster character. The presence of Penglaz adds a mystical element, reflecting connections to ancient ritual figures similar to the hobby horse found in Combe Martin. You can read my photo-essay on Coombe Martin’s Hunting of the Earl of Rhone here
My Experience
I settled into an attic room at my Airbnb. As I arrived in the evening, the host casually mentioned that seagulls were nesting outside my skylight. “They can be a bit noisy,” he warned with a knowing smile, “but hopefully they won’t keep you up.” I chuckled at the thought and shrugged it off, eager to explore Penzance. After unpacking my bags, I headed out to find something to eat, the excitement of the Golowan night ahead already building within me.
The 13th-century Turks Head Inn offered a good meal and ales, fuelling my anticipation as I stepped onto Chapel Street for the impending street party. I discovered over 30 members of the Golowan Band, and their strings, brass, woodwind, accordions, and drums created an unforgettable symphony in the Union Hotel. On this spot, England’s maritime triumph at the Battle of Trafalgar and Nelson’s passing were first announced in 1805!
I had hoped for the parade to gather before sunset so I could capture that magical twilight glow in my photographs. Unfortunately, darkness had enveloped the scene entirely by the time of the assembly. Then, with a lively traditional Cornish folk band setting the rhythm, the flickering flames danced against the backdrop of midsummer’s night, radiating joy and light throughout the festive revelry.
After ten thrilling minutes of navigating the crowd while walking backwards with my camera, I spotted Trickster and Penglaz emerging from the shadows of Chancery Lane. The moment they leapt into view, the crowd erupted in a deafening cheer, and the already electric energy skyrocketed into hedonistic joy! While the low luminance of the torch lights created an incredible atmosphere, photographing the lively dance participants was a challenge!
Penglaz, which translates to “grey head” in Cornish, refers to a horse skull mounted on a pole, animated by an anonymous dancer who operates its jaws while concealed beneath a black cloth. This practice is part of the hobby horse tradition in Cornwall, which originates from at least the 16th century, as evidenced by references in the Cornish miracle play "Bewnans Meriasek" from 1504. Additionally, the Teaser character introduces a folkloric and mischievous aspect to the festivities, featuring a masked, energetic performer who connects the procession to traditional Cornish customs such as guise dancing. This rich tapestry of folklore imagery highlights the cultural significance of these age-old traditions.
After an electrifying 45 minutes, the parade swept into the bustling harbourside quay at the Dolphin Tavern. Torches blazed with vigour as enthusiastic bearers triumphantly placed their flames into a towering beacon-style bonfire, casting a warm glow and heat into the revelry. The lively band continued to fill the air with infectious 4/4 Cornish tunes, while the crowd erupted in spirited shouts of “An Eye! An Eye!” As the last notes of "Serpent Dance" echoed into the night, Trickster and Penglaz vanished into the shadows, leaving behind the thrumming energy of the event. With hearts racing and spirits high, participants scattered into the night, buzzing from the unforgettable performances.
As I arrived at my room around 11 PM, I was greeted by the raucous sounds of the local seagull reception committee. A lively pair of parents were catering to their hungry, chirping chick, filling the air with an energetic mix of peeps and squawks! Somewhere along the way, the clamouring faded to the restful noise of the sea, and I eventually found myself drifting into sleep. Only to be reawakened at dawn’s orange glow at 4:30 AM! The sun made its grand entrance, accompanied by reenergised, enthusiastic calls of the seagulls who were thrilled to welcome the new day. By 5 AM, I hit the road, my head reflecting on the thrilling adventure of my visit!
Conclusion
Celebrating its 35th anniversary since its revival in 1991, the ten-day Penzance Golowan festival is a vibrant spectacle that attracts tens of thousands each year. It seamlessly intertwines ancient Cornish customs with a modern flair.
The event’s torchlit procession winds down Chapel Street—a narrow, historic gem that echoes tales from the medieval era. This enchanting parade may be brief, but it’s bursting with electric energy and rich pagan imagery that captivates the senses. The atmosphere is alive with excitement, making it a must-see festival highlight.
These once prevalent Cornwall bonfire traditions were discontinued in the late 19th century due to health and safety concerns about fire hazards. Now revived, don’t miss out on this extraordinary celebration that truly brings the spirit of Cornwall to life!
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What next?
Get ready for Steampunk Whitby, which blends Victorian aesthetics with steam-powered tech and a punk attitude. It features corsets, goggles, and airships and explores adventure and rebellion. Think brass and gears. What’s not to like?
Martin Urch Photography owns the copyright to all writing and images.
Wonderful photographs. What a fabulous experience